Diamond Clarity Grade Explained

Diamond clarity is the measure of how many internal features-inclusions-a diamond contains, and how visible they are. The scale runs from Flawless at the top to Included at the bottom, and it is one of the four Cs printed on every grading report. Unlike color, which is judged by comparison to master stones, clarity is judged by direct microscopic observation: a gemologist looks at the stone under 10x magnification, maps every inclusion, and assigns a grade based on size, number, position, nature and relief. This guide walks through each clarity grade, explains what the inclusions actually look like, and shows you where the best value is.

At HOLYCOME, clarity is the four C where buyers overpay most often. People chase VS1 or VVS2 grades thinking they are buying a cleaner stone, when an SI1 with a well-placed inclusion looks identical to the naked eye for hundreds of dollars less. Understanding the clarity scale-and especially the clarity plot on the report-lets you buy the cleanest-looking stone at the right price. It is also the four C most affected by the setting: a well-placed prong can hide an inclusion that would otherwise be visible.

This guide is written for buyers and wholesalers who want to stop overpaying for cleanliness they cannot see. We walk through every clarity grade, explain what the inclusions look like under magnification, and show you how to read the plot. By the end, you should be able to look at a clarity grade and a plot and know whether the stone in front of you is a good value, an overpay, or a risk.

What inclusions and blemishes are

Inclusions are internal features trapped inside the diamond as it grows. They can be tiny crystals of other minerals, feathers (small fractures), clouds (hazy groupings of minute crystals), needles, twinning lines, or bearded girdles. Blemishes are surface features: scratches, nicks, polish lines or extra facets. The clarity grade considers both, but internal inclusions usually dominate.

Inclusions are not defects in the everyday sense. They are nature's fingerprint, and they are what let gemologists prove a diamond is real and not a simulacrum. A completely flawless diamond is exceptionally rare. Even diamonds that look clean to the naked eye almost always have inclusions under magnification. The clarity grade simply records how many, how big, and how visible.

The position of the inclusion matters as much as its size. A tiny crystal under the table (the top facet) is more visible than a larger crystal near the girdle, because the girdle inclusion can be hidden under a prong. This is why the clarity plot on the report is so useful: it shows you where each inclusion sits, not just how many there are.

The clarity scale from FL to I3

The GIA clarity scale has six main categories, each split into two sub-grades. From best to worst: Flawless (FL), Internally Flawless (IF), Very Very Slightly Included (VVS1, VVS2), Very Slightly Included (VS1, VS2), Slightly Included (SI1, SI2), and Included (I1, I2, I3). Each step down the scale represents a measurable drop in how easily the inclusions are seen under 10x magnification.

The scale is not linear in price. Flawless stones are museum objects and cost many times the price of a commercial SI stone. The biggest price jumps are between grades where the inclusions become visible to the naked eye. Below that threshold, price drops quickly. Understanding where that threshold sits is the key to value buying.

The threshold is different for different shapes. Round brilliants hide inclusions well because of the faceting. Emerald cuts show inclusions clearly because the step facets are like windows. An SI1 that is eye-clean in a round may be visible in an emerald cut. This is why emerald-cut buyers step up to VS1 or VS2, while round buyers can shop SI1. The shape determines how much clarity you actually need.

The threshold also depends on the setting. A prong hides an inclusion at the girdle; a bezel hides even more. A halo of side diamonds distracts the eye from the center stone's inclusions. When you choose clarity, think about the setting you will use, not just the stone loose. An SI1 in a prong-set round is a great buy; the same SI1 in a bezel-set emerald cut may show the inclusion.

AGS uses a similar clarity scale, and IGI and HRD use the same GIA-based system. Once you know the GIA scale, you can read any lab's report. The only difference is how strict each lab is: GIA is generally the most conservative, and a GIA SI1 is usually a cleaner stone than an IGI SI1.

This lab difference matters when you compare prices. A GIA SI1 costs more than an IGI SI1, because the GIA stone is expected to be cleaner. If you are on a budget, an IGI SI1 that has been inspected and confirmed eye-clean is a fine buy. If you want the safest, most consistent grade, GIA is the standard. Either way, the plot tells the real story.

Flawless and Internally Flawless

Flawless (FL) diamonds have no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification to an experienced grader. They are extraordinarily rare, and most FL stones are sold to collectors rather than into engagement rings. If you are buying an engagement ring, an FL diamond is a waste of money: no one at a dinner table will ever see inclusions at 10x on your finger, and the premium is enormous.

For a wholesaler, FL stones are slow-moving inventory. They sit in the display case waiting for a collector, while VS and SI stones turn over quickly. If you are stocking an engagement ring line, there is no reason to carry FL stock. The demand does not exist at the retail level.

Internally Flawless (IF) stones have no inclusions internally, but may have minor surface blemishes. IF is the top of the practical market, but it is still expensive. The jump from VVS1 to IF is large in price and invisible to the naked eye. Unless you are buying an investment-grade stone, skip FL and IF.

For an engagement ring buyer, the practical top is VVS1. Even VVS1 is a luxury; most buyers are perfectly happy with VS2 or SI1. The FL and IF grades exist for collectors and for stones that will be held as assets, not worn on a daily basis. Do not pay for a grade no one can see.

For a wholesaler, FL and IF stones are a niche. They sell to collectors and to high-jewelers who need perfect stones for statement pieces. They are not the volume product. The volume is in the VS and SI grades, where 90 percent of engagement rings live.

VVS1 and VVS2

Very Very Slightly Included stones have inclusions that are very difficult to see under 10x. VVS1 is the cleaner of the two; VVS2 has inclusions that a grader can find but only with effort. To the naked eye, both are completely clean. Even under 10x, the inclusions are tiny and well-disguised.

VVS stones are a popular choice for buyers who want a 'clean' look without paying IF prices. They are also common in smaller stones, where the inclusion threshold is higher anyway. A VVS2 half-carat diamond is a normal commercial grade; a VVS2 two-carat is a premium stone.

The catch with VVS is that you pay a premium for cleanliness that you cannot see. A VS2 stone that looks identical to the eye costs significantly less. If you are on a budget, VVS is the first place to save. The inclusions in a VVS stone are invisible to you, your partner, and anyone at a normal distance; the only person who can see them is a gemologist with a loop.

VS1 and VS2

Very Slightly Included stones have inclusions that are noticeable under 10x but still invisible to the naked eye. VS1 is cleaner than VS2, but both are eye-clean. This is the most popular clarity range for engagement rings, because it offers a clean-looking stone at a reasonable price.

VS2 is where the value discussion gets interesting. A well-chosen VS2 is eye-clean and costs meaningfully less than a VS1. The key is the plot: look for inclusions that are small, off to the side, or near the girdle. Avoid VS2 stones with a large feather under the table face-up. A VS2 with a tiny crystal near the girdle is a great buy; a VS2 with a prominent central inclusion is not.

When you are comparing two VS2 stones, the plot is everything. Two VS2 grades can hide very different stones. One has a single tiny crystal near the girdle; the other has a feather under the table. Both are graded VS2, but they are not equivalent. Ask for the plot photo before you buy, and if the inclusion is not well-placed, move to a VS1.

For a wholesaler, VS1 and VS2 are the workhorse grades. Most engagement ring inventory is VS2 to SI1, because that is where the price-to-appearance ratio is best. Buyers who insist on VS1 pay a small premium; buyers who accept SI1 save more. The VS range itself is perfectly safe and widely accepted.

When you are buying a VS2 stone, ask whether it is eye-clean. An eye-clean VS2 looks like a VS1 to the naked eye, and it costs less. A non-eye-clean VS2 has an inclusion visible at arm's length, and it is not worth the price. The difference between two VS2 stones can be large, and the plot is how you tell them apart.

For fancy shapes, step up one clarity grade. An oval or a cushion shows inclusions more readily than a round, because the facets do not hide them as well. A VS2 oval may show inclusions that a VS2 round hides. If you are buying an oval, princess or cushion, budget for a VS1 rather than a VS2.

SI1 and SI2

Slightly Included stones have inclusions that are easy to see under 10x and may be visible to the naked eye. SI1 inclusions are usually not visible to the naked eye if well-placed; SI2 inclusions often are. This is the value range, and it is where smart buyers find bargains.

An SI1 stone with a small inclusion hidden under a prong position can look every bit as clean as a VS2. The trick is to inspect the plot carefully and, if possible, view the stone in person. If the inclusion is not visible face-up at arm's length, the stone is a great buy. If it is visible, either negotiate the price down or walk away.

SI2 is riskier. Some SI2 stones are eye-clean; many are not. An SI2 with a large feather near the girdle is also a structural weak point. For a budget engagement ring, an SI1 is the safe choice. An SI2 can be a bargain, but only if you have seen the stone and confirmed the inclusion is acceptable. At HOLYCOME, we flag our SI2 inventory so buyers know what they are getting.

I1, I2 and I3

Included stones have inclusions that are obvious to the naked eye and may affect durability. I1 inclusions are visible but usually do not threaten the stone's structure. I2 and I3 inclusions are larger, more obvious, and may include fractures that weaken the diamond. These grades are not used in fine jewelry.

I-grade diamonds are sold for industrial use or as fashion jewelry where the stone is tiny and the inclusions do not matter. For an engagement ring, never buy below SI2. The inclusions in an I1 stone are visible across the room, and the stone looks dirty no matter how well it is cut. The small price saving is not worth the visual compromise.

One structural note: if the inclusion is a feather (a crack) near the girdle, it can chip if the stone is knocked. Even an SI1 feather in that position is worth inspecting. A crystal inclusion, by contrast, is usually harmless. The type of inclusion matters as much as the grade, which is another reason to read the plot.

For a wholesaler, I-grade stones are not part of fine jewelry inventory. They go into fashion jewelry where the stone is tiny and the inclusion does not matter. If a customer asks for an I1 stone for an engagement ring, redirect them to an SI1. The price difference is small, and the visual difference is large. At HOLYCOME, we do not stock I-grade stones for engagement ring use.

When you are grading stones for inventory, remember that the clarity grade is permanent. A stone bought as SI1 today is SI1 forever. The plot is part of the stone's record. If you resell the stone, the next buyer will read the same plot and see the same inclusions. Choose stones that will still be attractive in ten years, not just stones that pass today's eye-clean test.

The clarity plot on the report

The clarity plot is the diagram on the grading report that shows where each inclusion sits. It uses standardized symbols: a small crystal is a dot, a feather is a curved line, a cloud is a shaded area, and so on. The plot is more informative than the grade itself, because it tells you whether the inclusions are hidden by the setting or visible face-up.

When you read the plot, imagine the ring setting on the stone. The prongs sit on the girdle at four or eight points. Any inclusion near the girdle at a prong position will be hidden. Any inclusion under the table, dead center, will be visible. Buy the first kind and avoid the second, even though both may carry the same SI1 grade.

The plot also uses symbols that tell you the type of inclusion. A small dot is a crystal. A curved line is a feather. A shaded area is a cloud. A tiny line is a needle. Learn these symbols and the plot becomes readable in seconds. If the plot shows one small dot near the girdle, the stone is a great buy. If it shows three feathers near the center, even a VS1 grade is weak.

Some sellers will show you the grade but not the plot. Always ask for the plot photo. The grade is a summary; the plot is the evidence. At HOLYCOME, we include the plot image with every stone we ship, because we want the buyer to see exactly what they are getting. A stone that looks good on paper but bad on the plot is not a good deal, and vice versa.

How inclusions form inside a diamond

Diamonds form deep in the earth over billions of years, and as they grow they trap small crystals, gases and fractures. A garnet crystal trapped in a diamond is a common inclusion; so are tiny clouds of graphite. Feathers form when the diamond is subjected to stress during its journey to the surface. Each inclusion is a geological record of how and where the stone formed.

This is why no two diamonds are perfectly identical. Even two VS2 stones have different inclusion patterns, and the clarity plot is the fingerprint that tells them apart. When a lab re-grades a diamond years later, it matches the inclusion pattern to confirm it is the same stone. The inclusions are not flaws; they are the stone's biography.

Some inclusions, such as a small garnet crystal, are actually prized by collectors because they are diagnostic. They let gemologists prove the diamond is natural and identify its origin. For a commercial engagement ring, this does not matter; for a collector stone, a diagnostic inclusion can add value.

Clarity grading on lab-grown diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds are much cleaner than natural ones, because they are grown under controlled conditions. Most grown stones carry VS or VVS clarity, and truly included grown stones are rare. The same clarity scale applies, but the distribution is shifted toward the clean end. A grown SI1 is unusual; a grown VVS is normal.

Lab-grown diamonds also have characteristic inclusions that differ from natural ones. CVD-grown stones may show growth lines or faint color banding. HPHT-grown stones may show metallic flux inclusions. The lab notes these on the report as growth features, not as flaws. If you are buying a grown diamond, do not pay a premium for VVS clarity; the material is already clean, and the cut matters more.

Because grown diamonds are cheap, there is no reason to buy a lower-clarity stone. The price difference between a grown VS1 and a grown VVS1 is small, and the VVS stone looks identical to the eye. Take the cleaner stone. At HOLYCOME, our lab-grown inventory is almost all VS to VVS, because that is what the factories produce.

How to choose clarity for value

The value rule for clarity is simple: buy the lowest grade that is eye-clean in the setting you will use. For most round brilliants, that is SI1. For fancy shapes, which show inclusions more readily, it is VS2. For small stones under half a carat, SI2 is often eye-clean because the inclusions are tiny.

Spend the money you save on clarity on cut. A Excellent-cut SI1 looks brighter and more beautiful than a Good-cut VS2, and it costs the same. This is the single most common upgrade path we recommend to customers. Do not pay for VVS unless you have a specific reason; the naked eye cannot tell.

When you are choosing a clarity grade, remember that the setting hides more inclusions than you think. A four-prong solitaire hides inclusions at four points around the girdle. A bezel setting hides the entire girdle. A halo of side stones distracts the eye from the center stone. Buy the clarity that looks clean in the actual setting, not in the abstract.

Finally, remember that the clarity grade is permanent. The inclusions do not change over time. A stone bought as SI1 today is SI1 in twenty years. The clarity plot is part of the stone's identity, and it is what supports resale. For more on VVS specifically, see what VVS1 clarity means, and for the wider picture, start with the diamond 4Cs guide.