The Diamond Dilemma: Lab vs Natural
The diamond industry has undergone its biggest disruption in over a century. Lab grown diamonds — once a scientific curiosity — now account for roughly 10-15% of the global diamond jewelry market and growing rapidly. But what exactly are they, and how do they compare to natural diamonds?
In this guide, we break down everything you need to know: chemical composition, quality grading, price, ethics, certification, and resale value.
What Is a Lab Grown Diamond?
A lab grown diamond (also called lab created, synthetic, or cultured diamond) is a diamond produced above ground through one of two manufacturing processes:
HPHT (High Pressure High Temperature)
This method mimics the natural conditions deep within the Earth. A tiny diamond seed is placed in carbon and subjected to approximately 1,500 degrees Celsius and 50,000 atmospheres of pressure over several weeks. The carbon crystallizes onto the seed, growing a larger diamond.
CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition)
A diamond seed is placed in a vacuum chamber filled with carbon-rich gas (typically methane and hydrogen). Microwaves or lasers heat the gas, causing carbon atoms to rain down and build up on the seed, layer by layer, over 4-8 weeks.
Both methods produce diamonds that are chemically, physically, and optically identical to natural diamonds.
Chemical and Physical Comparison
| Property | Natural Diamond | Lab Grown Diamond |
|---|---|---|
| Chemical Composition | Pure carbon (C) | Pure carbon (C) |
| Crystal Structure | Diamond cubic | Diamond cubic |
| Hardness (Mohs) | 10 | 10 |
| Refractive Index | 2.42 | 2.42 |
| Dispersion (Fire) | 0.044 | 0.044 |
| Density | 3.52 g/cm³ | 3.52 g/cm³ |
| Thermal Conductivity | Excellent | Excellent |
| Formation Time | 1-3 billion years | 2-8 weeks |
As you can see, the only meaningful difference is formation time. Lab grown diamonds pass every diamond test except specialized origin identification.
Price Comparison
This is where the difference becomes dramatic. Lab grown diamonds typically cost 30-70% less than comparable natural diamonds.
| Carat / Specs | Natural Diamond (approx.) | Lab Grown (approx.) | Savings |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.0ct F VS1 Excellent | $6,000-$9,000 | $1,200-$2,000 | 70-80% |
| 1.5ct F VS1 Excellent | $10,000-$15,000 | $2,000-$3,500 | 75-80% |
| 2.0ct F VS1 Excellent | $18,000-$28,000 | $3,500-$6,000 | 75-80% |
| 3.0ct F VS1 Excellent | $40,000-$60,000 | $7,000-$12,000 | 80-85% |
The savings increase with carat size. A $5,000 budget buys a 1-carat natural diamond or a 2.5-3 carat lab grown diamond of equivalent quality.
Quality and Grading
Both natural and lab grown diamonds are graded using the same 4Cs system:
- Cut: How well the diamond is proportioned and polished (most important for brilliance)
- Color: How colorless the diamond is (D-Z scale)
- Clarity: How free of inclusions (FL-I3 scale)
- Carat: Weight of the diamond
Lab grown diamonds are available in the full range of grades, from D-color Flawless to lower commercial grades. Both GIA and IGI certify lab grown diamonds with reports that are nearly identical to natural diamond certificates, except for a clear "Laboratory Grown" designation.
One advantage: lab grown diamonds are more commonly available in higher color and clarity grades at accessible prices, since the manufacturing process can be controlled more precisely than nature.
Ethical and Environmental Considerations
Natural Diamond Concerns
- Conflict diamonds: While the Kimberley Process has reduced blood diamonds, issues persist in some regions
- Environmental impact: Diamond mining moves tons of earth, uses significant water and energy, and can cause habitat destruction
- Labor practices: Artisanal mining in developing countries may involve unsafe conditions and child labor
Lab Grown Advantages
- Conflict-free by definition: No mining, no war funding
- Lower environmental impact: Uses less land and water, though energy use can be high depending on the power source
- Transparent supply chain: You know exactly where and when the diamond was created
However, it is worth noting that lab grown diamond production is energy-intensive. Facilities powered by coal have a larger carbon footprint than those using renewable energy. Reputable producers use solar, wind, or hydroelectric power.
Certification
Always purchase diamonds with a grading certificate from a reputable lab:
- GIA (Gemological Institute of America): The gold standard, certifies both natural and lab grown
- IGI (International Gemological Institute): Very common for lab grown diamonds, widely accepted
- GCAL (Gem Certification & Assurance Lab): Offers additional light performance grading
Avoid diamonds sold without certificates or with certificates from unknown labs. Holycome provides IGI certification with all lab grown diamond purchases.
Resale Value
This is the biggest drawback of lab grown diamonds:
- Natural diamonds: Retain approximately 30-50% of retail price, with rare high-quality stones holding more
- Lab grown diamonds: Retain approximately 10-30% of retail price, and the market is still developing
The resale market for lab grown diamonds is immature and prices continue to fall as production capacity increases. If you view the diamond as an investment or heirloom, natural is the safer choice. If you view it as jewelry to be worn and enjoyed, lab grown offers superior value.
Which Should You Choose?
Choose Lab Grown If:
- You want the largest, highest-quality diamond for your budget
- Ethical sourcing is important to you
- You plan to wear and enjoy the ring rather than treat it as an investment
- You want a 2+ carat stone without spending $20,000+
- You like the idea of technological innovation
Choose Natural If:
- You value the tradition and romance of a billion-year-old stone
- Resale or heirloom value matters to you
- You want the strongest possible certification and market acceptance
- Your budget allows for a high-quality natural stone
- You prefer the "natural origin" story
The Middle Ground: Moissanite
If you want even more value, consider moissanite — a lab-created gemstone with higher brilliance than diamond at a fraction of the cost. A 1-carat D-color VVS1 moissanite costs $200-$600, compared to $1,200+ for a lab grown diamond and $6,000+ for natural. Holycome specializes in moissanite jewelry and offers GRA certification with every stone.
Final Thoughts
Lab grown diamonds are not "fake" — they are real diamonds, just made above ground. They offer an ethical, affordable alternative that allows consumers to get significantly more carat weight and quality for their money. The choice ultimately comes down to your values, budget, and how you feel about the origin story of your stone.
At Holycome, we offer both lab grown diamonds and moissanite, allowing you to choose the stone that best fits your needs and budget. Our team can help you compare options side by side and find the perfect stone for your custom jewelry.